Saturday, January 28, 2012

Journey to Jacmel (part 2)



We made our way to the beachfront, a long stretch of dirty sand arching around the bay from the UN-occupied harbor facility to low mountains across the bay.  The beach is lined with rows of coconut trees and it is obvious that this was once a very beautiful spot bustling with activity, tourists, fishing boats and shops from a bygone era.  



Unfortunately, its mostly a dumpsite now, with garbage strewn in heaps everywhere, while prime oceanfront property lies in ruins.  We got a local’s tour and explanation of a luxury oceanfront hotel abandoned and slowly crumbling after relatively minor earthquake damage (our engineer, Roy, thought the structural aspects of it looked in pretty good shape), more the victim of awaiting a resolution of ownership between the widow (Haitian) and ex-wife (Canadian) of the deceased owner, its stained-glass windows and stagnant pool poignant reminders of a much-better time.  


Next door a beautifully-muraled wall surrounds a night club left vacant for the last 20 years, nobody wanting to claim ownership or buy it because it was supposedly owned and operated by a member of the vicious and feared “tonton makout” secret police under former dictator Duvalier.  


Down the road near the end of the beach a new hotel was under construction, and several small shops crafted paper mache figure figures and masks for the upcoming Carnivale celebrations which are big in Jacmel, and a makeshift camp in the hotel grounds was restoring what looked like furniture pieces from this or a similar hotel.  A rusty-framed picture kind of summed up the bygone era:  
paper mache animals for the upcoming festivities 
Carnivale mask shop in full production mode
























“Part French, Part African, Part Caribbean.  100% Unforgettable.”

left hanging after the earthquake



After regathering at the vehicle I asked Marc if there was anything around in good shape, and sure enough there is. We navigated to a bluff overlooking the bay and walked into the Cap Lamandou Hotel, a beautiful, modern tropical oasis where the next few hours were spent relaxing, dining, checking out the historic artwork and swimming in the ocean and at the beach below.  

can you say "Aaaaahhh!"
and now for something different.. NOT Alberta beef, but good nonetheless
Lisa's traveling pharmacy of natural herbs & cleanses.. She's still not well
Painting depicting France's colonial gem, Haiti's sugar plantations
French capitulating to Haitian general, national independence over 200 years ago...
R&R time above Jacmel bay
a gorgeous residential portico beyond
a long walk back up the stairs

This was very nice, an excellent retreat and place to refresh and rewind for a few hours together.  There is much more to see and do in Jacmel and surrounding area, including the beautiful Bassin Bleu (see pic below, from the internet) and the nearby Parc National la Visite, isolated above 6000ft near Seguin with its magnificent cloud forests and mountain trekking (see photos, again from the Internet), as well as more coves and bays to explore, snorkel, dive and fishing...  As Marc says, that's "the NEXT time you come to Haiti"... he's a sly one! (:    Before long afternoon was turning to evening and we had to start making the trek across the city and back up and over the mountains to Haiti Arise at Grand Goave, awaiting a return "the next time....". 

Bassin Bleu
trail to Sequin near Parc National la Visite
waterfalls in Parc Nationale la Visite

No comments:

Post a Comment

Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.